Risk Factors for Injury from Rock Climbing

PURPOSE:Rock climbing is becoming increasingly popular despite the risk of serious injury. Previous research has established that elite indoor climbers are susceptible to overuse injuries of the hand and fingers. However, the present study examines the prevalence of climbing injuries in a more diverse group. In addition, self-efficacy is investigated as a potential risk factor.RELEVANCE:Information about the aetiology of climbing injuries should form the basis of communication strategies and educational interventions designed to prevent injury, and inform rehabilitation. PARTICIPANTS:Of 205 active British rock climbers, 201 (98%) agreed to participate voluntarily and yielded useable results. The 163 male climbers (Mage = 35.2 years,SD= 11.8) and 38 female climbers (Mage =35.1 years,SD= 10.7) did not differ significantly in age (p>0.05).METHODS:Climbers approached in their naturalistic environment were asked to complete items relating to their climbing behaviours,injuries, and self-efficacy. Climbing items included number of years experience, and the frequency and technical difficulty of routes or problems accomplished in different styles (soloing, traditional leading,sport leading and bouldering) in the last 12 months. Injury items included days unable to climb due to climbing injuries, anatomic allocation of injuries incurred (related to falling, overuse, and strenuous moves), and sources of treatment or advice sought. Self-efficacy was measured using the 10-item Climbing Self-efficacy Questionnaire(CSQ; developed following an initial pilot study), in which climbers rate their confidence to accomplish domain specific tasks on a scale of 0-100.ANALYSIS:Statistical analysis included uni-variate statistics, logistic regression and t-tests.RESULTS:Twenty-one climbers (10%) had been injured as the result of a fall, with 4 reporting upper or lower limb fractures. Sixty-seven (33%) had incurred overuse injuries, including 35 finger injuries. Fifty-seven(28%) had suffered injuries from strenuous climbing moves, including 31 finger injuries. The most common sources of advice or treatment were physiotherapists, other climbers, and physicians. Fall-related injuries could not be predicted by any of the independent variables.The probability of sustaining an overuse injury was higher for climbers who completed difficult climbs whilst soloing or traditional leading(odds ratio (OR) 1.23; 95% confidence interval (CI) 1.06 to 1.42), sport leading (OR 1.40; CI 1.18 to 1.66), and bouldering (OR 1.40; CI 1.17 to 1.68). Overuse injuries were more likely for climbers soloing and traditional leading (OR 1.12; CI 1.01 to 1.24), sport leading (OR 1.12; CI 1.023 to 1.22), and bouldering (OR 1.24; CI 1.08 to 1.43)more frequently. Bouldering difficulty also predicted injuries incurred from strenuous moves (OR 1.24; CI 1.04 to 1.49).CONCLUSIONS:Climbing injuries are relatively common, and medical professionals provide key sources of advice and treatment. Climbers with the most ability and dedication are most at risk of injury, particularly finger overuse. Fall-related injuries are comparatively infrequent, though all climbers may incur them. Self-efficacy does not appear to predictclimbing injuries.IMPLICATIONS:Climbers should be aware of the risk factors for injury, warm up progressively, incorporate rest periods,and recognise injury symptoms when they occur.KEYWORDS:Exercise, Climbing, Injury.FUNDING ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS: The second author was supported by The British Academy grant SG-39588. ETHICS COMMITTEE:Leeds Metropolitan University, School of Allied Health Professions, Ethics Committee